The Other Tuscany — The Mysterious Abbey at Monte Oliveto Maggiore

by Mario 15-Jul 2010

Ley lines, earth energy vortices and power centers are not often associated with Italy. These terms are usually linked to places such as Sedona, the Pyramids and Stonehenge. Nonetheless, a secluded medieval abbey in southern Tuscany seems to rest on exactly such a spot.

According to locals and expats living in the Tuscan region of Le Crete, the area surrounding the Abbey of Monte Oliveto Maggiore abounds with inexplicable positive energy. Inhabitants appear to live longer than the average, enjoy excellent health and everything that either grazes or grows is similarly improved. It is not uncommon to see centenarians, still in good health with all original parts, including teeth, nonchalantly tending fields. Back in the 80s studies corroborated, at least in part, this high level of good health and longevity enjoyed by the inhabitants. The olive oil does taste better and the ground yields a bit more of whatever is planted.

Abbey monks, in accordance with age-old recipes continue to transform simple herbs and berries into quite enjoyable liqueurs that seemingly restore ailing kidneys, digestive systems, urinary tracts and colons. If magic potions are not your cup of tea, you may be tempted to freely taste some of their organic wines, extra virgin olive oil, spelt, honey or Sambuca. The Olivetan monks, a separate branch of the Benedictine Order, have lived here since 1319. Not the same monks mind you. No one lives that long nowadays no matter how much elixir they imbibe.

Aside from the lure of longevity, the Abbey at Monte Oliveto Maggiore is a fascinating day trip. As you venture across the drawbridge into this monastic enclave the past embraces you. A wide avenue beyond the gatehouse leads to the impressive Gothic façade of the church. The route is marked by botanical gardens on one side and tall whispering Tuscan cypresses on the other. The tower, library, apothecary, cloisters and church are adorned by works of many Renaissance masters including: della Robbia, Signorelli and Sodoma. You may sample some of their art work here — click on the links at the bottom of the page for more.

Visitors are welcome to tour the abbey compound. It is open daily from 9:15 am to noon and from 3:15 pm to 5 pm in winter or 6 pm during summer. The luckiest visitors are those that can get me to the church on time. Each morning at 7 am the Mass is celebrated with Gregorian chants. At at 6:15 pm the monks are singing their vespers and the rosary. Try to get here early or stay on to enjoy another magical mystical tour at the monastery of Sant'Antimo. This part of Tuscany is filled with enchantment, remains uncluttered by mass tourism and makes a great base for exploring much of central Italy. My next post will reveal some of the interesting hill towns that surround these abbeys.

In the meantime... Cent'anni (a common Italian toast wishing you 100 years of life)

Free Fashion Tours of Florence

by Mario 17-Jan 2010

Hurry! Florence has launched a series of guided fashion tours that take visitors behind the scenes of the city’s fashion industry. Each tour lasts about three hours and is absolutely free. Visitors will be guided through shops, artist studios and museums featuring everything fashionable from wedding dress design to shoes to jewelry and contemporary clothing for men, women and children. This experiment in promoting a brand new type of tourism began on January 18, 2010 and ends on June 21, 2010. Each tour is limited to a maximum of 20 persons and while tickets are free, reservations must be made.

http://www.florenceartfashion.com/ 

The site provides phone, fax and email address to make your reservations. The sponsoring organization is Florence Art & Fashion. Once on their site, click on Fashion Itineraries and select Calendar to see what’s going on during your stay. Hurry, as word spreads these tours will fill up quickly.

The Fascinating Faces of Italian Wine

by Mario 14-Jan 2010

The next time you go to Piedmont (Piemonte) take a look at the average Piemontese winemaker. Chances are he is tall, muscular and somewhat tight-lipped. Now look at his wine. The wines of Piedmont, such as Barolo, Italy’s king of wines are big in stature, powerful and unapproachable — that is until you uncork them and let them breathe for quite a while. Typically, the Piemontesi show the same characteristics until given time to get to know you. Like their wine, once they open up you will have an unforgettable friend for life.

Tuscany is a bit different. Tuscans are the marketeers of Italy. For instance, everyone raves about Tuscan olive oil; however most of what is “packed in Lucca” originates in Puglia, Abruzzo and a host of other places. The Tuscans are salesmen. They are handsome and charming. Now look at Chianti, Tuscany’s most popular wine. It is a happy, engaging and popular beverage. However, a typical Chianti may have as many as six or seven different varietals in each bottle. No one ever knows what’s truly in the bottle except the vintner. The same may be said for those alert and engaging Tuscan eyes — while smitten, you may never fully understand what’s behind them either.

Sicilian wines, like their makers are small in stature and nowhere near as popular as their neighbors to the north, yet, when you taste a Sicilian Marsala it is sweet and fiery, just like the people. Sicilians are filled with passion and their eyes openly reveal the intensity that burns within. A good Marsala burns going down and makes you glow from within.

Luigi Minnucci (center) presenting wine tasting awards

The credit for these interesting observations go to Luigi Minnucci, a world class sommelier and very dear friend who passed away last year in his native Abruzzo. Help me honor Luigi by adding more popular wines and the resemblance of their makers to this list.

 

About this blog

Hi, my name is Mario Scalzi and it is time for me to give something back to Italy for all the wonder and joy it has brought me over a lifetime.  more....

 

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