Start by never asking for latte, unless you want a glass of milk. Italians love their coffee and while most of us are familiar with cappuccino and espresso there are at least 30 ways in which Italians individualize their coffee. To preserve our collective sanity, I have cut the list down to the basic variations.

Just Coffee — Un espresso or un caffè normale is the national beverage of Italy. Espresso, meaning quick, is served in a small cup filled to less than half. The crema or coffee foam should be a third of an inch thick and if using sugar, the sugar should slowly seep through the crema without dissipating the foam. Most espresso is drunk standing at the bar and the average cost of a cup in Italy is 1 Euro or less. Sitting at a table costs more. Extravagant exceptions are fancy hotels and famous cafes such as the Florian in St. Mark’s Square in Venice topping the charts at around 5 Euros per cup. Then again, at the Florian you get to sit in Italy’s most renown square, listen to the orchestra play show tunes and watch the world stroll by. Most folks who order a Florian coffee tend to nurse the cup for at least an hour. It may be the best hour of all in Venice and 5 Euros sounds quite fair. 

Serious Italians and coffee lovers everywhere may ask for un caffè ristretto or un caffè corto (short shot). This potent brew is served in the same small cup and uses the same amount of coffee as does an espresso. The only difference is that less water is employed resulting is a more concentrated, less bitter coffee flavor. Don’t fret over the caffeine content. There is more caffeine in a cup of American style coffee than in an espresso.

If you are fretting over the caffeine content — as in you need more — order un doppio ristretto. This is a double shot of concentrated espresso. With this potion under your belt there is no need to come home by plane, you can fly right from the bar!

If fretting over caffeine content — as in you need less not more — order un caffè decaffinato (decaffeinated) or try the leading decaf brand by requesting un Caffè Hag. A European Sanka wannabe that sounds much like it tastes. If you dislike coffee, and quite a few younger Italians do, ask for a trendy alternative called orzo. Orzo means barley and that is what it’s made from. I have no clue what orzo tastes like and less desire to find out. However, orzo allows non coffee lovers to share in Italy’s favorite pastime — hanging out at the bar — and that can’t be a bad thing.

For those who crave more liquid in the cup request un caffè lungo (long). It is still served in the little cup and made with the same amount of coffee, however, the cup is more than halfway full. The final option is to breakdown and ask for un caffè Americano. A large cup is filled with espresso broth that tastes nothing like American coffee. Dunkin Donuts, found throughout Europe, tried a few locations in Italy. They eventually packed their tent and left, not before leaving a bunch of young Italians hooked on donuts.  

Coffee & Milk — Cappuccino is Italy’s breakfast drink of choice. The word cappuccino means little hood and this coffee is literally an espresso with a frothy, little hood of milk.

Caffelatte, another breakfast drink (coffee and milk), is typically served in this fashion: One large cup, one small pitcher of espresso coffee and a separate pitcher of foamed milk. Mix and and serve yourself.

While it is bad form to order either of the above anytime after noon, it is always the right moment to ask for un caffè macchiato or un marocchino. Caffè Macchiato is an espresso served in a small cup with a dollop of foamy milk. A Marocchino, is a mini cappuccino, with a hint of cocoa, usually served in a small glass.

Coffee Plus — Caffè Corretto means a correct coffee. The only way to correct coffee in Italy is with booze. The choice is yours to ask for un caffè corretto con: whisky, grappa, anice, Fernet Branca. The latter (Fernet) is a horrid, bitter digestive. I’ve seen Italian hunters in countryside bars drink these up at dawn and proceed to run out and shoot at anything that moves.

Italian Coffee Lingo — Now that you know the basics you can mix and match to suit your taste. Don’t worry, Italians do it constantly to stress their individuality. You can order anything in vetro, meaning in a see-through glass. Ask for the milk senza schiuma (without foam) a parte (served on the side) in tazza grande (in a large cup) con latte freddo (with cold milk). So let’s try un caffè doppio ristretto in tazza grande con latte freddo a parte. Got that? 

If you need it and don’t see it ask for either zucchero (sugar) or dolcificante (aspartame).

Nearly 100 years ago a unique coffee tradition began in the city of Naples. Customers of coffee shops would pay twice for one espresso, instructing the barista to log the paid but untaken beverage in an “in suspense” chart (caffè pagato or a caffè sospeso). The barista would record what the patron paid for, such as an espresso, cappuccino or even a pastry. Paid items would remain in the log book until someone less fortunate would come and inquire if there was anything paid or in suspense. The barista would check the log and say: “Yes, there is a paid cappuccino. May I serve it to you?” The beauty of this form of charity was multifaceted. Donors and recipients remained completely anonymous to one another. The recipient was always treated with dignity. Donors would compete with other donors as to who could leave more paid coffees behind and baristas all over the city took great pride in carefully recording each entry and serving it.

Following Italy’s Dolce Vita boom years of the sixties this genteel Neapolitan tradition became confined to Christmas and nearly disappeared. In the last two years, it has sparked it up again. Perhaps, it’s that global cloud of uncertainty that looms over all of us. Nonetheless, the tradition of the caffè pagato is back in Naples and spreading. In Florence nearly a dozen of that city’s most fashionable cafes are recording paid coffees.

Not all Italians are yet aware of this fad and Italians generally hate not being at the forefront of any trend. So, if you happen to remember to leave a caffè pagato or caffè sospeso the next time you are in Italy, just watching the reactions may be worth the price and some interesting conversations might ensue. Say: Vorrei lasciare un caffè pagato. You can also say caffè sospeso. The former translates into a paid coffee the latter a suspended coffee — as suspended in thin air. Both mean the same thing.

Now if only we could start something similar over here, Starbucks, Dunkin Donuts and McDonalds immediately come to mind. Perhaps we could get even more creative and leave a paid prescription behind at the pharmacy or grocery items at the supermarket.

Next we shall explore the myriad ways you can order and enjoy a coffee in Italy.

PS. While a paid espresso is always good, most Neapolitans discovered it was better to leave a paid cappuccino as the foamed milk provided the recipient with a bit of nutrition as well. 

Il Pallaio in Florence offers simple Gluten Free Italian meals and pizzas 

Q. Ciao! 
My father was born in Italy as were my grandparents and Aunt.  I want to apply for an Italian Passport as I travel there whenever time and money allows!!  BUT--I need to locate my grandparents birth certificate and do not know how to go about that.  Could you direct me to the correct Italian Department I would need to contact? 
Grazie, 
Linda

A. Hi Linda,
You need to request each birth certificate Cerificato di Nascita from the Anagrafe (registry office) of the Comune (municipality) where each grandparent was born. The request should contain the following information: name, place and birth date of the person and the name of the parents of the person born. If the individual was born in a tiny village, hamlet or location outside of a town with a town hall, visit this site http://www.comuni-italiani.it/ to locate the Comune. The search site is in Italian but it will eventually lead you to the right city hall. Let me know how you made out.
Ciao
Mario

Fruits and Veggies — Produce sections offer a vast variety at low prices. The trick is knowing that you need to bag, weigh and tag the items yourself. Picture coded electronic scales are located in the produce area. Press the image on the scale that matches your selection and simply affix the sticker that pops out on the bag.

Deli Counter — The cold cuts, cheeses and other delicacies defy description. Start by taking a number and closely watching the monitor so as not to get skipped over if you are not familiar with every Italian number from 1 to 100. When it does come up you may want to say eccomi (here I am) to get the person's attention. Cold cuts are sliced wafer thin and individually placed on waxed paper sheets so they don’t stick to each other. Italians use the metric system so the word to learn is Etto, which means a tenth of a kilo. A kilo is 2.2 pounds. Un etto is just shy of a quarter of a pound. To get closer to half a pound ask for due etti. If it's an abundant pound you want, just say mezzo kilo (half a kilo). When asking for a wedge of cheese, say una fetta di... taleggio, fontina, gorgonzola or point at whatever you can’t pronounce and say quello. Typically, the person will demonstrate the size of the wedge they are planning to cut. By nodding yes or by spreading or closing your thumb and forefinger you can signify the amount.

Prosciutto — The word literally means ham. In the US, we use this word to denote the cured version. If you want to order this type of ham in Italy, then ask for crudo. If you want it less salty say: dolce or sweet. Otherwise, simply point and say: quello (that one). There are dozens of varieties including nostrano which is the local version of whatever is being sold. Lovers of boiled ham should ask for cotto. Indicate the one you like or say quello in offerta which means: give me the one that is on sale.

Olives & Appetizers — Point at the item and ask for un vasetto meaning small container. The counterperson will show you a plastic container. Indicate again with your fingers or hands if you want it larger or smaller.

E poi? — This question means: what else? When you are done say basta cosi, grazie (that’s enough, thanks). The person will usually wrap all of your items into one package and affix the label.

Dairy Section — Sliced cheese only exists in prepackaged versions in the dairy chest. You can also find pre-packaged cold cuts here but the deli stuff tastes better. Let’s not kid each other, all of the prepackaged items at the dairy counter taste 100 times better than anything bought outside of Italy. Fresh milk called latte fresco is at dairy chest; however, most Italians drink UHT (ultra heat treated) milk which only requires refrigeration once opened. You can find it in the aisles. Latte Scremato is skimmed milk, Latte Parzialmente Scremato is low fat milk, Latte Intero is whole milk and Panna is heavy whipping cream.

Water — Italians drink plenty of acqua minerale (mineral water) often sold in six- or 12-packs. Look for the word Naturale if you want still water or the word Frizzante if you want it sparkling.

Bread — If you want sliced bread for toasting, the supermarket is where to find it. Some supermarkets have great bakeries. The aroma and number of people lining up to buy loaves and pastries are good indicators as to whether you should pick some up here or move on to a proper bakery. Un kilo di pane is just over two pounds. Mezzo kilo is closer to a pound.

Butter — Those who speak Spanish should not be afraid to buy some burro. It means butter in Italian and there is no connection to donkeys.

Basta cosi, grazie!  

Wherever I travel, visiting the local supermarket is among the first order of business. Supermarkets are a measure of a population’s culinary sophistication revealing the level of cuisine diners may expect when eating out. When it comes to food, Italy is at the pinnacle worldwide and so are its markets. Foreign shoppers marvel at the variety, freshness and very low prices found in Italy’s supermarkets. In future segments, I delve into the nuances of outdoor markets, bakers, butchers and specialty food shops. Can you tell this is one of my favorite topics?

Supermercato — The major supermarket chains are: Coop, pronounced more like cop, Conad, CRAI, Esselunga, Pam, Standa, Carrefour and Auchan. A supermarket may be part of a shopping center known as a Centro Commerciale.

Hours — Italian supermarkets open most days from morning until evening or 8 pm. Many are open on Sundays even if only until noon. If you happen to find a market closed on Sunday, it’s very likely that the market in the next town over is open.

Variety — The word iper in front of the name denotes huge, such as IperCoop, and in these colossi, you may find anything ranging from electric fans to lawn mowers. Passable wine and spirits are commonly sold in markets but do not expect to find prized vintages here. Serious wine lovers need to find an enoteca (wine shop) for the best variety or trek to their winery of choice.

The Cart (carrello) —  An adventure to the Italian supermercato begins in the parking lot. Shopping carts are chained together so they don’t mysteriously wander off to Germany or ding parked cars. To unlock one, place a 1 Euro coin in the slot of the mechanism located on the handlebar of the cart. Push the coin in until it releases the chain latch attached to the other carts. When you return the cart, push the prong at the end of the short chain into the next cart in line, and your coin will automatically pop out. If you are fortunate someone may approach you with a coin in hand as you are loading up your car. This is not because they sense you are a tourist and are taking pity on you. They simply wish to exchange your cart for a coin. This unspoken reciprocity saves both parties a trip to the shopping cart chain gang.

Checkout — Bring your own bags or you must purchase them at the register. Plain plastic bags may cost up to 50¢ each and you must estimate how many you will need as your cashier begins. There are no baggers. Shoppers bag their own groceries, and it’s best to start immediately and move very quickly to avoid infuriating those in line behind you. Paying by credit card is the norm, yet cash is always welcome. If the checkout person offers you some bonus stamps for the store’s frequent shopping promo, just pass them to the person behind you in an effort to partially quell their annoyance at your dreadfully slow bagging technique.